Zmijanje.design: A Fusion of Tradition and the Contemporary

Editorial note: This text is part of the HEDONIST archive and was originally published in 2021 in the fourth issue of the print edition.

At the heart of the collection is the Zmijanje embroidery, which was inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2014.

The creator of the collection and the idea behind the Zmijanje.design project is Aleksandra Ivanković (Alexis Qū) from Banja Luka - an architect, designer, artisan, and entrepreneur working under the creative studio IMAGINARIUM Studio. The first traces of the idea appeared in 2011, more intensive work began in 2014, and the full development took shape in 2018.

“Inspired primarily by the traditional costumes of Zmijanje, but also by Japan, the form of the garments represents a synthesis of these two seemingly distant cultures. However, when you take a closer look at the philosophy, craftsmanship, and use of clothing, they are remarkably similar,” Ivanković revealed for HEDONIST magazine.

The ornamentation, based on a simplified motif of Zmijanje embroidery, is executed using various techniques, including hand printing, painting, stenciling, stamping, and embroidery.

“Special attention is given to the diversity of the human body and the changes we go through at different stages of life. The same piece can be worn by people of different body types - women before, during, and after pregnancy, as well as men. The philosophy of universality is one of the main guiding principles of IMAGINARIUM Studio, and it is strongly reflected in this collection,” explained the Banja Luka-based designer.

The fashion show, held in August 2020 in Banja Luka, was produced in video format and premiered in September the same year, marking the first online fashion show in the wider region. It was not publicly announced and was kept discreet to avoid gatherings during filming.

“I am still surprised by the strong reactions, which continue to this day. People were primarily delighted, especially considering the difficult conditions under which it was filmed, during COVID restrictions and under police supervision. It was a true endeavor with an uncertain outcome until the very end. Around 30 brave individuals participated, and only thanks to their collective effort and positive energy did we achieve our goal,” Ivanković shared.

Reactions to the designs have been diverse, as is often the case with work that pushes boundaries. There have been numerous praises, invitations for collaborations and appearances, orders, but also comments such as “this is not for our region,” which was somewhat expected, as the collection was primarily created for international markets. So far, three fashion shows, two solo and one group, have been held, along with two exhibitions.

“I would especially highlight the fashion show ‘Made to Measure,’ held at the Banski Dvor in November 2019, for people with various disabilities. It was approached with great care, resulting in over 60 different garments. Outside Bosnia and Herzegovina, several pieces were created for Torino Fashion Week as part of the ‘Idol’ collection, representing the Balkans and receiving excellent feedback,” Ivanković explained.

An unforgettable experience, she adds, was the exhibition “Zmijanje and Legend,” held as part of Theatre Fest in June 2019 at the National Theatre of Republika Srpska. Within the ZMIJANJE.design project, graphic designers and five embroiderers, including the respected Radenka Jungić, showcased their work. The exhibition marked the first presentation of the idea of merging the Zmijanje tradition with contemporary expression.

“The modern always emerges from the foundations of the traditional, while tradition promotes long-term values. Whether we are aware of it or not, the traditional and the modern intersect constantly, both materially and conceptually. If we look within ourselves, we will find traditional patterns at the very top, no matter how much we strive to live in a modern way. Through Zmijanje.design, this connection is particularly emphasized and visually expressed. This fusion has taken shape in line with important trends in the fashion industry, such as fair trade, zero waste, heritage revival, and sustainability, which are crucial from an ecological perspective - something that tradition, having endured for centuries, has already proven,” Ivanković explained.

One of the main challenges in combining modern and traditional elements is sourcing materials, particularly textiles. It is difficult to find the same specific fabric twice from local suppliers. Reaching manufacturers is also challenging, and even then, minimum order quantities are often in tons, making it logistically and financially unfeasible for a small entrepreneur.

“Until the market stabilizes and business travel becomes consistently possible, we are not accepting large orders but focusing on selling individual pieces,” Ivanković clarified.

The Zmijanje.design project was created to operate through the platform www.zmijanje.design, which is periodically updated with new blog content and products. Desired items can be ordered there, as well as via www.imaginarium.studio, either custom-made or in predefined sizes. The product range continues to expand, covering different price categories. On the local market, the focus is on classic T-shirts and hoodies. Digital versions of Zmijanje embroidery patterns are also available, particularly useful for creatives in the digital age. Plans are ambitious.

“In the coming period, we are working on two new collections within IMAGINARIUM Studio that will approach Zmijanje from a different, more philosophical angle. We are also introducing new product groups - jewelry, home decor, and toys. IMAGINARIUM Studio itself is conceived as a multidisciplinary design, artistic, and research studio, and it will continue to develop in that direction,” Ivanković emphasized.

Copyright and Intellectual Property

In creative work, traditional problems are rare. For Zmijanje.design, the biggest challenges have been copyright issues and the protection of intellectual property.

“Our people are not accustomed to these concepts, and there is a common belief that everything on the internet belongs to everyone. Unfortunately, when you live from creativity, you must seek mechanisms of protection. Kind words and a friendly approach have not proven effective - in fact, they can be counterproductive. That is why I advise all creatives to protect the work they plan to pursue seriously through the appropriate institutions,” Ivanković warned.

A Community of Creators

Collaboration with creatives is of great importance for promoting the entire concept. Artists working on themes related to Zmijanje and its embroidery can present their work on the Zmijanje design platform. The project involves numerous graphic designers, artists, embroiderers, knitters, as well as ethnologists and experts from various fields who contribute research and writings about this culturally and historically significant region.

• Written by: Vesna Mijatović / HEDONIST
• Originally published in HEDONIST Magazine, Issue 04, 2021