Una: The One and Only – A River Made for Enjoyment

Its uniqueness is easy to understand. Along just fifty kilometers of its upper course, from Martin Brod to Bihać, waterfalls, cascades, and rapids unfold one after another. Between them lie quiet, idyllic villages where only birdsong and the rustle of leaves can be heard, and where the Una flows gently and almost silently, like a lake. Above the river rise forested hills, crowned with the remains of medieval fortresses such as Orašac, Ostrovica, and Rmanj.

Among all its natural wonders, the Japod Islands stand out. Spread across five small islets intertwined with streams and waterfalls, connected by wooden bridges and marked with playful signs like “Caution: fairies at play,” this place offers a rare experience - even the chance to spend a night in a real treehouse.

Named after the ancient Japod tribe that lived along the Una before the Romans' arrival, the Japod Islands are also known as the “heart of nature.” One of the river branches flowing between the islets forms a perfect emerald-green heart shape, giving the area its poetic nickname.

Alongside its natural beauty and cultural landmarks, the Una is rich in legends. One of them we have already mentioned - the Roman soldier who gave the river its name. Another comes from Martin Brod, a small village where nearly every household has its own stream or waterfall.

According to tradition, the village was named after Marta, a young woman who fell in love with a boy living across the river. Forbidden by her parents to see him, she set out one night to cross the shallow ford - known locally as a “brod” - to reach her beloved. She slipped on the river’s limestone bed, and the water carried her away. Today, the impressive Milančev Buk waterfall stands at the very place where Marta’s story ended.

Near this waterfall lives Marija Reljić. Though some call her a “living legend” because of her energy - managing countless tasks in a single day - she describes herself simply as a village housewife.

“I work as a receptionist in the National Park, and when I’m not at work, I grow organic fruits and vegetables. Together with my husband, Dragan, and our sons, we make homemade jams, juices, liqueurs, and brandy. We also have our own watermill where we grind flour. We produce dried meat and sausages, and we sell everything to tourists,” Marija says with a smile that reflects her love for the place she calls home - “the most beautiful place in the world.”

At the Reljić family estate, visitors can also see the “bučnica,” or what many now call an eco washing machine - a device that uses only the power of clean water, without electricity or detergents, to wash clothes perfectly.

Alongside its natural beauty and cultural landmarks, strung like pearls along the Una, numerous legends are woven into its story.

And that is far from the only wonder along the Una. About twenty kilometers downstream from Martin Brod, past settlements like Ostrovica, Kulen Vakuf, Orašac, and Ćelije, the river reveals Štrbački Buk - the largest and most impressive waterfall on the Una, standing 24 meters high. Each year, around 100,000 visitors from all over the world - from Northern Europe to Saudi Arabia and China - come to see it. The most adventurous among them experience rafting near the waterfall.

But the Una offers just as much to those who prefer a slower pace. Picking medicinal herbs, fishing, enjoying a barbecue with beer chilled under a waterfall, or drifting along the river in a traditional wooden boat - powered by a quiet, battery-operated motor - all reflect a different kind of pleasure.

No noise, no pollution - this is the Una. One and only. The most beautiful among rivers.

• Written by: Milkica Milojević / HEDONIST
• Photos: Mladena Bolta
• Originally published in HEDONIST Magazine, Issue 06, 2021