Gastro Danube Čardas: Fried Terpan Fish, Homemade Noodles and an “Eight-Two” Spritzer
A warm June night on the terrace of the “Stari mlin” in Dalj. Tamburitza musicians tune their instruments while, barely twenty meters away, the mighty Danube rolls past in the dark. Beneath the roof of the summer kitchen, five fiery cauldrons boil at once. I circle the head chef and, over a glass of rakija, steal a few culinary secrets: this much onion for this much fish in this much water, this much paprika and this much salt at precisely the right moment - never earlier.